3 Simple Rules - Lily Bulbs & Companion Plants

7 foot Lilium regale in afternoon shade

Country Farm vs. City House
Tucked into a little valley within the foothills of the Olympic Mountains, we are blessed with sub-irrigated gardens and 50 to 60 inches of rain between October and April.  Yet, twenty minutes away in Sequim, annual rainfall is only 16 inches, so plants that struggle with soggy ground (Lavender, for example) are perfectly suited to Sequim, and those that enjoy plentiful moisture, bask in the extra humidity on our farm. Rhododendrons, Azalea, Vine Maple, Bigleaf Maple, Alder and Stinging Nettles are naturally abundant.  Perennials, shrubs and trees usually grow taller and faster; identical cultivars of shrubs that stayed compact when we lived within the much drier city limits (19 annual inches), quickly outgrew their allotted space on the farm, so adjustments needed to be made.  It is hard to believe that only 20 miles away the growing conditions can be so different.

You need to consider not only your official USDA Hardiness Zone, but also in what ways your garden differs from your neighbors or immediate region - wetter, drier, colder, hotter - and plan accordingly when choosing companion plants for the lily garden. 

 

Rule #1:  Avoid vigorous annuals, perennial or vines

Lilies are not like tulips, they do not have a hard outer shell, so crabgrass and overly enthusiastic plants can actually penetrate the softer lily bulbs.  We've found bulbs with white root grass growing through a bulb that we could actually pull from side to side like dental floss - very entertaining - but not a good thing.  Traditional "ground covers" that form thick mats in an attempt to reduce weed germination are death to lily bulbs because they are unable to penetrate the underground tangle of roots.  Not only are the thick lily sprouts tender, but the surrounding foliage is a good hiding place for slugs and snails.  Look for plants that grow from a crown and do not spread very quickly and be cautious of well-meaning neighbors who offer to share a plant because they have "too much".

Alstroemeria aurea in southern Tasmania, Australia - JJ Harrison

Dianna still insists that she moved out of the city house to get away from Alstroemeria aurantica, which expanded exponentially in the drier hilltop soil, trying to choke out the lily bulbs in the front yard and shooting extremely viable seed up to 15 feet away.  One neighbor saw the ripped out plants being stuffed into trash bags for the landfill and begged a few.

We warned him... Oh yes, we warned him.

Three years later he called to say that his "attorney would be contacting" us. (Smile.)

Wouldn't you know, those pesky roots found a blemish in his foundation, and there for everyone to see was a very healthy blooming Alstroemeria emerging from a crack in his basement studio.  Live and learn, and ask your neighbors about the better behaved plants when you move into a new home - plus the "weedy" ones that may be considered a local blight. 



Rule #2:  Check height and sun requirements

Perennials and Annuals should not be greater than 2 feet tall if your lily stems average 3 to 4 feet.  If surrounding perennials grow too tall the lilies may have too much shade on the lower portion of their stems and air circulation could be compromised - risking Botrytis (fungus) in certain years.  An exception would be plants with lacy foliage like annual Cosmos or wide branched shrubs where light and air are not impeded.  Taller growing lilies, such as Trumpets, can be a good background plant next to a fence with taller perennials or shrubs in the front,  Lilium regale is the classic lily for backgrounds, growing 6 feet or more in height when established.  Some "shade" plants that are diminutive in stature may do well actually being shaded by taller growing lilies, but in general, Annuals, Perennials and smaller shrubs should be rated "Full Sun" or "Part Sun" in order to grow normally together.

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) Copyright (C) 2005 Raffi Kojian

Just remember Rule #1 and do not crowd other plants in too close to the lily stems, give them room to seek the sun as the sprouts emerge.  Ideally, the lilies should be a foot or so tall before the surrounding annuals and perennials have gained very much height.  You can closely plant smaller, earlier blooming bulbs near to the lilies, but keep in mind that it will be more difficult to dig and divide the lilies later.  The ripening foliage of Crocus, Squill (Scilla) Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) possibly covering the emerging sprout tips may lead to fungus concerns in areas with heavy spring rainfall.  This is rarely a difficulty in drier climates, but here we keep the area surrounding lily stems clear of both foliage and mulch.  Just a light sprinkling of sawdust shavings  (what is in your bag when we package the lily bulbs) marks their location and make it easier to not accidentally step on sprouts while spring weeding.


Rule #3:  Consider water requirements 

'Golden Eye' Rose in our front yard last summer.

Lily bulbs are drought tolerant, they store moisture within the leaf-like, overlapping "scales" that make up the bulb and thus do not need watering until the soil is dry one or two inches below the surface.  Plants like Astilbe and Iris ensata need more moisture than lilies to grow well, so place those in wetter locations, away from the lily bed.  Also please do not plant lilies within the range of an automatic sprinkling system for lawns that is on a fixed schedule.  Lawn grass is more shallow rooted and it requires more frequently applied moisture to stay green all summer.

Roses, Peonies, Daylilies, Poppies, (both perennial Oriental types and annual types like our Purple Poppies) can be deep rooted and coexist quite happily with lily bulbs.  If you water deeply on a less frequent schedule,  your shrubs and trees will usually send roots down to a deeper level, providing a measure of protections against times of short term drought and save money on your water bill. 

Dianna's Recommended Plants - How many do you already grow?

ANNUALS

Alyssum (Lobularia)

Cosmos – ‘Sonata Series’ is very compact

Dahlia  – choose varieties that only grow 12-14 inches tall or use as backdrop

Dianthus barbatus ‘Wee Willie’ – plus other shorter growing cultivars

Dill – herb with lacy foliage and can't have too much of this when its time to make pickles

Geranium (Pelargonium) – many named cultivars, take your pick

Marigold (Tagetes)  – short varieties are best

Nigella – “Love in a mist” has lacy foliage and pretty pink, white and purple flowers

Pansy – great in coastal areas

Papaver  (Poppies) – deep rooted, so will not overrun the bulbs, but some grow quite tall

Penstemon  – choose shorter growing cultivars

Primroses (Primula) – great in coastal areas

Snapdragons  (Floral Showers Series) – old standard types can overwhelm if planted too close

Violets (Viola) – great in coastal areas

Zinnia – choose shorter varieties please

BULBS - all bloom much earlier than lilies and go dormant in summer

Snowdrops (Galanthus)

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari)

Narcissus – choose tiny varieties

Species Tulips – not the tall hybrids

PERENNIALS

Alchemilla  erythoropoda  (Lady’s Mantle) – compact form

Aquilegia (Columbine) – all forms, I love ‘em!  They seed freely and have great foliage.

Aster (Alpinus and Wood’s Series) – both compact

Aubrieta  – blooms early and tends to be evergreen, making dense cushions of flowers

Bellis Daisy – blooms in spring, not extremely long-lived, but can reseed

Campanula carpatica – avoid C. persicifolia, it even self-sows in our gravel driveway

Gaillardia ‘Arizona Sun’ – needs well drained soil when dormant, I lost mine last winter

Hemerocallis (Daylily)  – short varieties, plant at least 18” from bulbs - they will spread

Heuchera (Coral Bells) – plant at least 12” – 18” from bulbs, makes dense clumps

Peony – keep lily bulbs at least 24” away from peonies which do not need dividing

Papaver – (Oriental poppies) – plant bulbs at least 24’ away from the clump

Primula (Primrose) – likes moist soil in spring, probably best in coastal areas

Pulstatilla – attractive seed heads follow spring flowers, well behaved here

Saxifraga – not the “mossy" types that need moist shade

Violets – watch the reseeding

SHRUBS – plant bulbs at least 24” away

Roses – choose Miniatures, Hybrid Tea or shorter growing Rugosa types, depending on your climate

Hardy Fuchsia  – lovely in coastal areas as a backdrop

Azalea –  the bright orange really cheers up our rainy days in spring and some have nice bronze edged foliage in summer

Barberry (Berberis) - Need a thorn barrier?  Cultivars with purple pink leaves are my favorite.

Lavender  – likes it hot and dry for best flowers, so plant just outside of sprinkler systems or uphill of lilies in a rockery

These are just some of our favorites,   and bear in mind that some cultivars may become weedy or not be advisable for your local area - so be sure to check with a knowledgeable neighbor or extension service. 

Do you have other recommendations that you would like to share?  

Please add a comment in the box below and mention in what USDA Hardiness Zone you are located or the general area you live. 

(Your experience may be just the news another gardener was waiting to read.)